Soul-warming noodle bowls and spicy butter wings are expertly balanced with crisp salads, addictive fish tacos, and out-there, but always worth ordering, snacks like Spam musubi (popular in Hawaii, it’s a slab of grilled Spam perched atop a block of rice) and perfect blistered shishito peppers. The bar/restaurant is cozy yet somehow never cramped, even though it’s in a buzzing area of Williamsburg blocks from McCarren Park. Do not leave without ordering Ginanjuice, an infusion of just-juiced carrot-beet-apple-ginger, gin, and Lillet that tastes healthy and bracing, but is also stronger than you think, so pace yourself.

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