Pretty much every single dish at this old-school luncheonette is fried, and so incredibly worth it. The main highlight are their quesadillas (pockets of fried masa filled with cheese and a choice of potato, chorizo, spicy rajas, etc.) which are served sizzling on plastic plates. After one or two of these babies and their famous flan after, an Alka-Seltzer comes in handy, as does a long walk—a treat in this beautiful old neighborhood dotted with boutiques, bars, and cafes.

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