Sometimes we patronize a bar just as much for the owner as we do for the drinks. Felisha “Flea” Foster was one of those beloved neighborhood figures, synonymous with her bar, Spoke, which had to close last year. But a former bartender has stepped in and rescued the place, staying true to Spoke’s down-to-earth Bostonian vibe and stringently curated biodynamic and small-producer-led wine list. The room is long and narrow, with a bar countertop that resembles speckled duck eggs, the odd geometric print brightening up the bricks, and specials scrawled in marker on the mirror-paneled walls. It’s a space to linger in, to decide that actually, you do need a bowl of smoked butter bean dip and fried oysters with parsnip mayo to soak up all the wine.

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