Boston is a city that actually has bakery crawls—and with good reason. Each one of the probably hundreds of Italian bakeries in the city and its surrounding suburbs claims to specialize in one of many Italian pastries. Modern Pastry is no different, other than that there is really nothing modern about its pastries at all. (Note the retro plastic-signed storefront.) Here, the specialty is lobster tails—named for their shell-like shape—or what Italians call sfogliatelle. The pastry is composed of what looks like hundreds of thinner-than-paper, crispy, flaky, butter-painted layers, filled with orange-zest-flecked ricotta. Sfogliatelle are far too labor-intensive to make in your own kitchen, making the excursion to Modern Pastry as necessary as it is indulgent. Only in Boston, parts of Brooklyn, and Campania would you find something so obscurely Italian.

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