Mamaleh,” a Yiddish term of endearment for a child, sums up how this deli makes you feel–cherished, maybe a little bit spoiled, and certainly well fed. Deli classics are served up in this roomy, diner-style space, most lovingly prepared the old-school way (the pastrami is spiced, cured, and smoked for days), some dishes with a little modern flair thrown in. The bagels and the bialys are all made in-house—ready to be slathered in herby cream cheese and every variety of smoked fish. The blintzes, oozing with not-too-sweet raspberry preserves, are heaven-sent and especially good with an egg cream (syrup, seltzer, and root beer).

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