This is not a bar; it’s a neighborhood of bars. A few alleys intersect to create a district of drinking: hundreds of small bars, each separately owned and distinct from the others (one is leopard themed, one is themed on the band The Who, another is full of troll dolls—there’s really something for everyone). These are seriously small venues, some seating only or four or five people. At each, it’s quite likely the owner will come over to chat with you (or, in some cases, serenade you). Some of the bars are less welcoming to tourists, so check for signs that say, “OK English.” Expect to pay a cover charge of around $5 per person and make friends with whomever is sitting right next to you

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