Travel

This one’s a little off the beaten path in a quiet residential neighborhood on the outskirts of Tokyo—and it’s entirely worth the trip. Yakumo Saryo is the passion project of designer and chef Shinichiro Ogata, who has designed interiors for Aesop in Japan, as well as the Andaz hotel in Tokyo. The restaurant lies at the top of a hill, surrounded by lush gardens. Plenty of windows and skylights dissolve the barriers between indoors and outdoors. The interior is a model of simplicity, finished in wood and stone. Yakumo Saryo is a modern take on the traditional multicourse kaiseki meal, using ingredients like sea bream, Wagyu beef, and the most perfectly prepared white rice you’ll ever encounter. Guests can be transported for either breakfast or lunch, but dinner is a more rarefied journey—you can get a reservation then only if you’ve dined there before or can be referred by someone else who has.

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