This restaurant is a must visit just for the setting alone-a 15th century, former papal residence in the Palazzo della Rovere. Deciding where to sit is the real problem, there’s the torchlit, tree-filled courtyard or the vault-ceilinged, Pinturicchio frescoed, candlelit, dining room. The food is classic Italian, we recommend soaking up the scene with an aperitivo or Sunday brunch rather than dinner.

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