“Hipster” is not a word you would use to describe the restaurant scene in Rome, though this happy, light-filled spot is as close as you’ll get—in a way that’s not remotely pretentious. You can sit at the bar for a pastry-and-coffee breakfast, then move to the back room for a veggie-centric lunch (the menu changes according to the season’s harvest), aperitivo in the evening (the cured meats and cheeses sold at the front complement the cocktail menu), and a traditional Roman dinner after that (the fish is great, the pastas are even better).

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