Near the Milano Centrale train station, Il Carpaccio is one of those simple, no-frills trattorias that serve deeply satisfying plates of prosciutto with melon, white truffle risotto, and seafood soups. There are also plentiful veggie options, our favorite being the puntarelle (aka chicory, a super bitter green vegetable stalk) dressed with the best-quality olive oil and Parmesan, as well as asparagus and porcini.

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