Milan’s best restaurants tend to be meat-heavy, so it was a nice surprise to discover Joia, which is chef Pietro Leeman’s ode to vegetables. Focusing on seasonal produce, Leeman doesn’t mess too much with nature, letting the freshness of the finest organic market ingredients shine through. Simple dishes are strongest, like a porcini and pumpkin salad with cumin-dusted polenta or an Indian-style vegetable soup with creamy coconut and Himalayan curry, avocado, and lovage.

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