Travel

Partners in the kitchen and in life, Derry and Sallyanne Clarke have operated one of Dublin’s most successful fine-dining establishments for nearly thirty years. Walk through the cobbled courtyard into the old Georgian coach house—often to be welcomed by Sallyanne herself. Chef Clarke showcases the very best of Irish cuisine inflected with a French sensibility; every dish and detail is thoughtful, right down to the bread basket (which in itself is a solid introduction to Irish gastronomy—the malty, dark Guinness bread, the umami-strong sourdough, the traditional soda loaf). Diners will notice a fish- and game-heavy menu paired with the unexpected flavors that keep this establishment in the Michelin guide: Wicklow sika deer with salsify and juniper, duck with black garlic. The atmosphere is never stuffy or precious, instead, laughter fills the high-ceilinged space that’s always full of that heady Dublin mix of politicians, creatives, bankers, and the occasional out-of-towner that gives L’Ecrivain its personable, familiar character.

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