The absolute highlight of any Chicago trip is eating at Schwa. Chef Michael Carlson and his staff are so punk rock that they don’t even answer the phone, which makes getting a table difficult, yet weirdly fascinating. From the outside, Schwa looks like it has been condemned. Inside, the dining room is small and spare yet cozy. The formality of the service and menu (no orders taken until the whole party arrives, and the elaborate tasting menu) is juxtaposed by all the hot waiters in skater clothes and the blaring hip hop/heavy metal. The food is sublime. It’s classic American comfort food by way of Ferran Adrià/Banksy/Tony Hawk. It’s off the hook. Try the 9-course tasting menu.

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