Don’t be fooled by the clean, no-frills setup at this Bucktown bistro, Chef Todd Stein’s menu is complex and downright experimental at times. At brunch time, things take a more low-key, but equally satisfying turn with smoked ham benedict, braised pork chilaquiles, and a pork-broth noodle situation hilariously called the hangover breakfast. The sprawling second floor is reserved for private parties of up to seventy-five people. There are two other arrivals from the same company, which both justify a visit: Balena and Formento’s.

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