Hike down the steps to Ammoudi Bay at Oía’s port to find a pristine swimming area lined with family-owned tavernas. Ammoudi is the best of them, especially for the small plates, like the fresh anchovies marinated in vinegar, salmon tartare, and prawns with ouzo and orange. The view is basically dinner theater, as sailboats and fishing vessels make their way back and forth across the water as the sun goes down.

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