Ariete, which has inadvertently put Coconut Grove on the culinary map, specializes in comfort food with a Cuban edge. The grilled oysters drenched in bone-marrow butter is the most indulgent interpretation of surf and turf we’ve ever seen. The interior can’t quite make up its mind—tiled walls against wooden floors, with industrial ceilings heavy with pipes. But the sunny patio brings the whole thing together, and the fritas (spiced burgers topped with crispy fried matchstick potatoes and wrapped in a Cuban roll) make us quickly forget any design quirks.

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