When the venerable Sethi family, of Gymkhana fame, opened up a new Sri Lankan spot, at lighter prices than those of its sister restaurant, Londoners came in droves. The new space has been beautifully transformed into a Sri Lankan establishment of yore, with busy tiled floors and dark teak seating, ready for the Sethi’s super-simplified menu of “Hoppers, Dosas, Rice, Roast” and more traditional foods from Sri Lanka and the Tamil Nadu region of India. The Hoppers—a thicker dosa, basically—are the obvious choice, though the roast section of the menu brings some welcome surprises like a Buffalo Biriani and an incredible Lamb Roti. Peace has been restored, and so too have the lines up the street.

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