If you’re trying to get a handle on British cuisine by way of pie and mash, there are two versions to try: mash and liquor. You can tell a good pie (like the ones served here) by the crust: The top should be crispy and the bottom shouldn’t be soggy. The meat has been cooked in a sealed pie, so when you open it all up, the juices should come out and mix with the liquor and the vinegar and the white pepper, and a touch of salt—and that’s exactly what you’ll get at this spot, which has been in town for ages. Locals recommend the mash before a night of drinking, as it lines the stomach. As one friend told us, after pies and mash here, “you can drink like a fish and never get drunk.”

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