Fortnum & Mason, which had, of late, started to fall into the “tourist trap” arena, is making a comeback, and a major one at that with their splashy new restaurant, 45 Jermyn St. Suddenly, F&M is a destination for (well-heeled) locals again as well. Once inside the palatial Martin Brudnizki-designed bistro and seated at one of the luscious orange booths, the stuff of old-fashioned storybooks awaits: You can summon a cart of caviar and have your pick of the best, or ask for an ice-cream sundae (spiked, if you like) with the works. Of course, all the basics are available as well from British classics like rib steak to modern favorites like avocado on toast. It’s the sort of place you go on a special occasion and wear your “Sunday Best.”

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