Travel

Finally, a brick-and-mortar manifestation of Simon Rogan’s beloved pop-up, with most of the original staff making a return. Roganic’s produce comes straight from Rogan’s own farm, with a sprinkling of greatest hits from the rest of the British Isles. The fourteen-course tasting menu makes for a long evening, so best to leave the kids at home. Nordic flavors abound, most in the desserts—smoked juniper fudge, iced dandelion seed snap, to give an idea. The rest is a mix of the most delicious things you can think of, one course after the other. Raw bavette, scallops, buttery poached halibut, duck—they all make an appearance. Salt-baked celeriac (is there anything better than this? No, there is not), artichoke broth, beet sorbet, and a clever use of herbs and fruits balance out all the richness. If you’re going to commit to the tasting, go big—get the wine pairing, too.

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