Portland strikes the perfect balance between casual and formal in Fitzrovia. It’s relaxed enough for a midweek dinner when you’re in jeans, but sophisticated enough for a nice evening out with your parents. The food is a kind of New British, which really means the best of Brit ingredients dressed up with modern trends, like fermentation and smoking. Cornish mackerel comes with preserved cucumbers and green strawberries, the smoked pigeon with baby English radishes, and the little starter of plate of baby pickled vegetables—intended to just be an accompaniment—was a standout. Given that there’s an option to order as much as you want off the menu for sixty-five pounds per person, it would seem unreasonable not to. Come hungry.

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