Given the sleek decór and considering how difficult it (still) is to get a reservation, it’s hard to imagine that Sushi Den first opened its doors back in 1985. The interior is dark and moody, with a miles-long menu of fresh fish flown in from the Tokyo markets, plus warm Japanese dishes like udon noodles, hot pots, and dumplings. Chef/owner Toshi has now built a mini-empire on the residential street corner, with an izakaya spot and a more casual raw bar that are both equally great.

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