Chez Boulay is pure Quebec—by way of Scandinavia. Traditionally Nordic ingredients—elderberry flowers, juniper berries, sea buckthorn, elk, and trout—make their way onto beautifully presented plates in the most pleasing ways. Order the smoked seafood platter; the herring fritters and the fir-tree-cured salmon come with a fiddlehead-and-garlic-flower spread. The dining room is outfitted with black banquettes and pressed-tin ceilings and always buzzes from the late-dinner crowd. But if you have a hard time getting a reservation, come early in the evening.

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