Montreal residents are about as fanatical about their smoked meats as they are about their bagels. Lester’s owner Billy Berenholc has reigned supreme over this corner of Barnard for sixty years and is a total neighborhood fixture who knows everyone’s name. Lester’s version of the ubiquitous medium-fat, smoked-rye sammy is called the Cadillac, and that—washed down with a beer and several spoons of mustard—is the perfect introduction to the expansive menu of smoky briskets, pickles, and breads for a first-timer.

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