Set up in a stark and understated space that looks more like a garage than a restaurant, the décor begins and ends with a hanging disco ball found in the attic during renovation. The food is serious, particularly the innovative approach to seafood and veggies: sea urchin with horseradish tofu, fried anchovies, fresh shelling beans with chanterelles. Chef Jason Fox put together a pretty substantial six-course tasting menu ($75, $10 of which does to charity), which somehow feels healthy and light. The a la carte selection doesn’t disappoint.

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