French-born chef Christophe Happillon has become known as L.A.’s oyster sommelier through his oyster pop-ups at high-end restaurants and hotels. In 2014, he brought The Oyster Gourmet to Grand Central Market in the form of a tiny stall with wood-canvas wings that open and close not entirely unlike…yes, an oyster. Like the space, the menu is small but satisfying—oysters, of course, and also a selection of clams, shrimp, and some raw fish, along with wine and beer. In addition to his space at Grand Central Market, Happillon still does seafood catering, and brings oyster pop up bars to events and parties in Los Angeles.

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