Travel

An eighteen-course meal spanning several hours inside of an architectural marvel to a score composed by This Will Destroy You may not be for everyone. While one person says it was the best meal of her life, the next might say they could hardly sit through the experience. Coming here is just as much about showmanship as it is about food. But one thing’s for sure: You’ve never had dinner like this before. Chef Jordan Kahn (formerly of Red Medicine, currently of Destroyer) took over architect Eric Owen Moss’s “Waffle” building in 2017 with the intention of opening a fine-dining restaurant that has a function for every floor. Enter on the ground floor; get on the elevator to the kitchen and look around; get back on to the twenty-two-seat dining room. (If you notice a particular scent, it’s likely the custom fragrance Kahn developed to round out the dining experience.) Once there, sit back in the greyscale banquettes and wait for the show to begin—each course is: dramatic. You won’t see the same custom-made plate twice and the food that sits on it is to be appreciated with your eyes just as much as your taste buds. We won’t get into the menu because it is crafted around the ingredients Kahn is in the mood to work with—giant kelp, yarrow, green walnut. The wine pairing is worth the splurge here, and if not that, get the nonalcoholic juice accompaniment. Once dinner is over…oh, wait. No, it’s not. Make your way down to the garden for the final act, which includes post-dinner drinks and more sweets.

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