The givens: Unadorned sushi, attentive service, a busy and buzzy atmosphere. What sets it apart from the other west side options is very simple. It’s the rice. Perfectly moist and served slightly warm, it’s the ideal vehicle for the fish, which is, for the most part, presented sans sauce (why mar perfection?). They offer a $28 lunch special that condenses the omakase menu but still packs the same punch. There’s also a location in Beverly Hills, and now one in New York.

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