In the league of restaurants turning Sydney into a world food capital, Sean’s tops the list. There’s something so quintessentially Australian about the place. It feels casual, thanks to the relaxed décor, and there’s no pressure to dress up (this is a town of surfers), but the food—which Sean Moran grows on his farm in the Blue Mountains outside the city—is sophisticated and hyperseasonal: rich chicken livers and bitter radicchio; the freshest, sweetest tomatoes doused in creamy burrata; and all manner of fish from the sea a few steps away. Book well in advance and ask for a seat outside. Looking over the expanse of Bondi Beach below is what you came to Sydney for in the first place.

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