Buenos Aires is typically known for its tango and steak, but the written word is also a big deal around here with a bookstore on practically every corner. El Ateneo is not your run-of-the-mill bookseller: housed in a former grand theater built in 1919, this imposing, cavernous space is now packed floor-to-ceiling with books set amidst the original ornate fixtures. A particularly thoughtful detail is the in-store café, built onto what was once the tango stage, and still framed by dramatic red velvet drapes. Spend a few hours taking it all in and wrap up with a strong cortado center stage.

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