Emmer & Rye
SkyHouse, 51 Rainey St., Rainey
Emmer & Rye is an unusual, heavy-on-heritage-grains concept we cannot get enough of. New American cuisine is served dim sum–style, which translates to best-of-the-farmers’-market small bites that come around on a cart as you work through your mains. Chef Kevin Fink cut his teeth at Copenhagen’s Noma, which is reason enough to come here, and the resolutely seasonal, farmers’ haul influence is apparent on every plate. Menu standouts include a peppery-to-the-point-of-spicy (we’re not complaining) cacio e pepe with heritage Blue Beard durum wheat pasta, and a buttery Carolina Gold rice pudding.
No Va (Closed)
87 Rainey St., Rainey
On an otherwise historic stretch of Rainey Street, dotted with craftsman style watering holes, No Va is an eye-catching, modernist addition to the neighborhood with its two-story dining room and second-floor patio. Chef Abby Yates' menu includes Texas peaches served with agave and guajillo salt and the Dodd burger topped with caramelized onion jam. One of the more southern dishes on offer is the cheddar mac 'n' cheese—fresh roasted jalapenos optional, but encouraged.