Seville
Establishment
neighborhood
Lola de los Reyes
6 Avenida de Blas Infante, Coria del Rio
Even if the idea of dancing in public is mortifying, you need to spend a night at this popular local’s bar, if only to watch a whole bunch of excellent Flamenco go down to live music and exceptional singing.
Setas de Seville
18 Plaza de la Encarnación, Centro
Other than being a head-spinning architectural feat, Jürgen Mayer-Hermann’s Metropol Parasol is a fully functional public space. Its size alone is impressive and the meandering paths along the edges of the “parasols” offer dizzying views of the city.
Verde Moscu
5 Calle Ortiz de Zúñiga, Centro
There’s an emphasis on fair trade and environmentally friendly clothing here, but you wouldn’t know it from the racks, which are lined with high-waisted trousers from Orla Kiely, cute little Veja sneakers, and soft striped t-shirts (made from bamboo, of course).
Mercado de la Calle Feria
Plaza Calderón de la Barca, Centro
Street markets are a major part of life in Seville, which makes a visit to the Feria Market a great way to get a feel for the city. It’s Seville’s oldest open-air market and surprisingly not at all touristy. Since you’re not going to cart fresh fish back to your hotel room, sample some ceviche and calamari at the on-site market bar, La Cantina, on your way out.
Vinéria San Telmo
4 Paseo Catalina de Ribera, San Bernardo
These guys deliver on what great food in Seville is about: Perfectly turned out tapas with the aperitifs to match. Highlights include an insane Tortilla Espanola, a Torta de Castuera with caramelized onions, crispy prawns, and Roteña-style cod.
Restaurant el Rinconcillo
40 Calle Gerona, Centro
A trip to Seville means tapas, which makes El Rincincillio a must. After all, they’ve been refining the craft since 1670. Everything about the restaurant, from the clientele (locals) to the décor (Spanish tile on the walls and cured meat hanging from the ceiling) is authentic. There is a formal sit-down restaurant upstairs, but it’s more fun in the standing-room-only bar area on the first floor.
Hotel Palacio de Villapané
31 Calle Santiago, San Bernardo
Just a few steps from city center, this small and luxurious boutique hotel occupies an 18th-century Andalusian palace, meaning that it’s stunning, too. There’s a spa and wellness center, a slick restaurant, and plenty of in-room amenities that aren’t ages-old at all.
Hotel Alfonso XIII
2 San Fernando, San Bernardo
In the 1920s, King Alfonso XIII of Spain had this hotel built to house visiting dignitaries and the like—it definitely has the lavish, royal touch. Rooms are spacious and ornate, replete with stunning tilework, balustrades, and all sorts of subtle flourishes. It’s been revamped in recent years and so there are plenty of modern amenities, like a pool and multiple restaurants.