Axpe

It’s a small journey from Bilbao or San Sebastián out to out to Asador Etxebarri in the Basque village of Axpe, which sits below a range of steep limestone mountains. Chef Victor Arguinzoniz is a genius at the grill (which he designed himself), and the tasting menu is between 12 and 14 courses of wood-fire and smoke. It may include: house-made chorizo and buffalo mozzarella, Catalan red prawns, Txuleton steak, and “caviar” made from rare and delicate teardrop peas.