Botequim da Graça
79 Largo Graça, Graça
First opened in the late '60s by Portuguese writer Natália Correia—and then closed after her death—Botequim da Graça re-opened in 2010: a quirky bar/café serving food, wine, and cocktails to locals through the late evening. Portions are hearty, and you can expect items like prago, a baked steak sandwich in cream mustard sauce, on the menu; the space often hosts music and poetry gatherings, so don’t be surprised if you stumble into one in the evening.
Feira Da Ladra
Campo de Santa Clara, Graça
Lisbon's big open air flea market, which has been taking place since the 12th century, now assembles every Tuesday and Sunday. It's admittedly a bit all-over-the-place, so finding the good stuff can take some hunting, but if you're patient, you can find furniture, old postcards, antiques, and vintage clothes and accessories. Fiera da Ladra translates roughly to "thief fair," which is to say that haggling is central to the experience. Photos: Marco Verch