R. Tomás da Anunciação 52A, Campo de Ourique
O Magano is a refined but still resolutely local spot (we were the only tourists in the place). Our chatty, intuitive server decided to skip the standard menu explanation and instead brought platters of what she figured we would like—cold seafood salad, bowls of chickpeas saturated in grassy green olive oil, and plenty of buttery rice. She guessed right. Pro tip: Reservations are essential, but make them late—no one eats before 8 p.m. in this town.
Bairro de Avillez
Rua Nova da Trindade, 18, Chiado
If you eat one place when you're in Portugal, make it Jose Avillez's thorough, Eataly-style restaurant complex in the São Carlos National Theatre in Chiado. In addition to a grocery with meats, cheeses, canned goods, and kitchen accessories, Bairro de Avillez is home to several notable sit-down restaurants, including Beco, a 1920's-style cabaret that features a prix fixe menu and live entertainment (for 18 and older, only), and Cantinho do Avillez, Avillez's modern take on traditional Portuguese food. Belcanto, the prix-fixe-menu spot that earned Avillez two Michelin stars, is just down the street.
Time Out Market
49 Av. 24 de Julho, Bairro Alto
This renovated market, part of Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbon's biggest fresh food market, has all the trappings of your typical food court—picnic-style community tables, food stalls, and large crowds—except the food itself is exceptional. It's a way to try a variety of dishes from a bunch of different top Portuguese chefs at once; there are thirty-five kiosks, with a not-to-be-missed spot from Henrique Sá Pessoa of Alma among them. Plus, there's ample outdoor seating on their adjacent terraces.
R. do Alecrim 35, Bairro Alto
With the exception of a few tables, all seats at Peixola are around one large, key-shaped bar in the middle of an intimate, lively dining room, where you'll find great cocktails, great ceviche, and equally great service. Almost everything on the menu is fish-oriented: think smoked salmon mousse appetizers, fish soup with anejo rum, and tuna tartar. Bonus: As of recently, the kitchen is open on Fridays and Saturdays until 1 am.
1 Av. Almirante Reis, Alfama
Known for serving some of the best seafood in Lisbon, the brightly lit Cervejaria Ramiro is always bustling with foodies—local and foreign alike—clamoring to try the restaurant's famous clams in garlic sauce, grilled giant tiger shrimp, and percebes (goose barnacles), among a host of other amazing options. While it may seem like you won't have room to try anything but the seafood, save some for their prego, a Portuguese steak sandwich—it's said to be the best in the city. Note: unsurprisingly, this place is pretty popular, so if you want to avoid the line (it's first-come, first-served), it's best to try for an early dinner.
54 Av. 24 de Julho, Lapa
If you're looking for late night sustenance, this is your spot: It's open until 6am, which is something you might require if you find yourself out dancing late. Specialties here include a nice green soup (caldo verde), and fresh baked rolls filled with chorizo and cheese.
Sol e Pesca
44 Rua Nova do Carvalho, Bairro Alto
This place is all about preserved seafood. While you could have a full meal here with table service, the best way to experience it is to choose a couple of cans of fish, and order some bread and wine to accompany. It's also a great place to stop in for picnic supplies (they have a counter for quick grab-and-go orders).
Clube de Fado
86–94 Rua S. João Praça, Alfama
This is a wonderful, aptly named late-night spot where you can get your dose of Fado; it's the kind of comfortable local place where you can end a night with a good meal, a gorgeous set of songs, and a glass of brandy.
Clube de Jornalistas
129 Rua Trinas, Lapa
Clube de Jornalistas occupies a converted 18th-century home, but the place to sit is really the gorgeous cobblestone garden/terrace, which is protected on all sides by verdant walls. Both the wine list and the menu are a balance of traditional Portuguese dishes and more international influences—regulars tell us that the lamb burger is the best in town.
Comida de Santos
39 Calçada Eng. Miguel Pais, Príncipe Real
Given the historical connection between the countries, it's no surprise that there are a few great Brazilian restaurants in Lisbon. Comida de Santos airs on the kitschy side, but the grilled meats (and the fries they serve them with) are cooked to perfection, and there are a few great seafood picks on the menu, too. Bonus: The lengthy but very complete wine selection is quite reasonable.