Lima

Pía León was previously head chef at her husband’s restaurant, Central, which was named the best restaurant in the world under her tenure. At Kjolle, her first solo project, she takes a less structured approach. (Central organizes its 18 courses by ecosystem. Here, she can mix it up.) What appears on your plate—colorful tuber trios, coconutty river shrimp, several varietals of cacao—is a feat, but when you learn what’s behind the scenes, the whole thing becomes even cooler: León and her multidisciplinary team research how to use every part of every plant to optimize flavor and minimize environmental impact.