Cecconi’s
55 Water St., Dumbo
It's tasteful (because it's Cecconi's), and it's cavernous (because it's in DUMBO), but neither of these things matter. Ask for a table outside. Then settle in on the deck, right on the water, and behold New York City as it was meant to be beheld. Get comfortable—order a Negroni and perhaps the shishito peppers with bottarga and lemon or the calamari fritti. The waiters are ridiculously accommodating and happy to break up your order so you can pace out the evening. Should one Negroni become two, follow up your aperitivi with a wood-oven pizza with black truffle, zucchini, and goat cheese or ravioli with Parmesan, mushroom, and sage. Better still: Order whatever will take the longest—the East River makes a remarkable dinner companion.