Ave. Echouhada, Hivernage
A bar, a restaurant, and a boutique, Le Comptoir does it all. The sprawling building has a clubby feel to it. My local friends have mentioned that it is a tourist spot, but it’s great fun just the same. A good spot for dinner and a drink plus, there’s a belly-dance show every night at 10:30.
Rue Abou Abbas El Sebti, Hivernage
This crown jewel of Moroccan hospitality is home to 53 separate riads, each with their own courtyard and fountain. Every room, spa, and common space is dripping in elegant Moroccan décor, including intricate tiles, colorful silks, and traditional chandeliers and lanterns. What’s more, the palace has more than 500 staff members, offering service that’s literally fit for royalty. The entire medina is a labyrinth of soothing water sounds (from the aforementioned fountains) and lovely scents that waft up from the well-tended garden, which spreads out over every inch of unclaimed space—it’s especially magical at night, when the winding paths are lit up with candles. When you’re not out exploring the city, book one of the couples’ treatments in the jaw-dropping spa.