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Establishment neighborhood
El Triunfo
On the way up the coast toward La Paz is El Triunfo, a tiny, formerly abandoned 19th-century ex-gold and silver mining town that’s absolutely worth a quick stop. It sort of feels like it’s in the middle of nowhere, and well, it is, but that’s part of its ghostly charm, which explains why so many people are buying up the abandoned miner’s homes. Head into town and have breakfast at the very cute Café El Triunfo, which is known for its unreal European-style breads and awesome cinnamon buns (plus great thin-crust pizzas later in the day). After that, head out for a walk in the former mining complex to see all the abandoned buildings­—Gustave Eiffel’s tower included—and the local desert vegetation. Serious mountain bikers can also take the bike trail, which leads deeper into the dessert. End the day at El Minero, a craft brewery that serves up incredible sausage sandwiches and award-winning paella that’s made over an open mesquite fire. The space itself is a great example of just how beautifully these abandoned buildings can be modernized.
Todos Santos
Todos Santos
This sleepy little surf town north of Los Cabos is a pretty 45-minute drive along the Pacific side of the peninsula. The first thing you’ll notice driving into town are the taco stands: each one has a specialty—whether it's Baja fish tacos, tacos al pastor, or carnitas—and it’s best to find out what it is the old-fashioned way: by working your way through the menus. If a proper sit-down meal is in order, grab a table at Café Santa Fe. A classic Italian restaurant may feel out of place at first, but it’s a local favorite, and it works. December is an excellent time to visit as you’ll be able to see whales migrating South, though the white-sand beaches and world-class surf breaks are all yours year-round and there are local surf schools and boating outfits to help make the best of it all. When bumming around town, don’t skip Mixtica, a quirky treasure-trove of a boutique packed with antique jewelry, gorgeous textiles, vintage clothing, and more. If you’re lucky, you’ll meet the owner, Euva—tales of her mermaid-meets-Frida Kahlo personal style have long since made their way stateside. Unless…
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