Ebisu Restaurants

Chef Kazuhito Motoyoshi might say there’s no secret to tempura, only the intuition to know whether you have the batter right. The truth is that there are a few secrets: batter density, water types, liquid nitrogen to cool the flour… But he’s right: Only an insane level of experience can get you there. Come, drink sake and shochu, and trust that if Motoyoshi’s giving it to you, it’s fantastic. (This place has two Michelin stars for a reason.) One note: Tempura Motoyoshi doesn’t take reservations online or by phone; you’ll have to ask your hotel concierge to pull some strings.

The thing to order here is the yuzu shio ramen, a delightfully and surprisingly bright chicken broth that’s been spiked with the citrus notes of yuzu. With that, of course, come all of the fixins: noodles, hard-boiled egg, char siu (pork belly that’s been grilled over charcoal right before it lands in your bowl), bamboo shoots, mustard greens, and a sheet of dried seaweed. To get the right bowl, the one that people line up for at all hours, familiarize yourself with the ramen-ticket machines at Afuri—and common at ramen-ya throughout Tokyo: Insert some cash first and then select the items you want to order. A ticket will be printed for each order, which you’ll then hand over to a staffer. And by all means, explore the options beyond the yuzu shio ramen! There’s seasonal ramen to discover, as well as tsukemen (cold noodles with dipping sauce) for warmer weather—plus vegan and gluten-free noodles made of shiritaki (Japanese yams). Oh, and it’s not only okay to slurp; it’s encouraged.