Establishment neighborhood
Ai Marmi
Viale di Trastevere, 53, Trastevere
Taking up a fairly large storefront in Trastevere, this traditional Roman-style pizza spot is an important stop if you’re eating your way through the city. Order off the lengthy menu (we suggest going purist with a Margherita), take a seat at one of the communal tables inside or street-side and enjoy your pie (you eat it with a knife and fork) while watching the pizzas go in and out of the massive oven in the open kitchen. Keep in mind that they keep to evening hours only and are big on take-out, so you’ll see a steady procession of locals picking up stacks of pizza boxes to take home for dinner.
Antica Pesa
Via Garibaldi, 18, Trastevere
The humble entrance on Via Garibaldi doesn’t exactly give it away, but this semi-fine dining restaurant has a solid reputation for being something of a hotspot. Specifically, it’s the private open-air terrace—particularly romantic at sunset— that draws locals and in-the-know tourists for return visits; inside, the walls are almost entirely covered in works by local artists. Food-wise, expect to find a lot of Roman classics (cacio e pepe, tripe, carpaccio), plus the occasional culinary curveball.