Monteverde

Slightly out of the way in Monteverde, this local adored, family-owned restaurant has become an essential stop for those looking for an epic meal. While the seconds are great, this is one of those places where you should double up on the pasta course—picking a favorite between the carbonara, porcini fettuccine, cacio e pepe, and more is impossible. They’ve also mastered the art of traditional, gently fried appetizers—calamari, anchovies, squash blossoms—something that’s a lot harder to do than it sounds.

Billed as a wine bar, this indoor/outdoor spot in Monteverde focuses on small-production Italian wines—plus an unexpected (though incredibly impressive) offering of tequila and mezcal cocktails. Come in the afternoon for coffee and stick around for aperitivo; to keep on theme with the wines, the plates of cheeses and cured meats, various toasts, and salads are all sourced locally. If you really want to stay put, the dinner menu is small but mighty and changes regularly.