Via Ludovisi, 49, Ludovisi
On the heels of a seventeen-month-long soup-to-nuts renovation, and now under the watchful eye of the Dorchester Collection (The Beverly Hills Hotel, Hôtel Plaza Athénée), this famously historic hotel, which first opened in 1889, is finally ready for its close-up. The location, situated between the Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese, mean that it’s central without being too highly trafficked. There are ninety-eight rooms, each one thoughtfully done in a way that feels comfortable but refined. (Think: a muted palette, WiFi, marble bathrooms, and Bottega Veneta toiletries.) With the revamp also came a new spa, which features Sonya Dakar treatments, plus a blow-dry bar and mani/pedi salon—both new-fangled conveniences not often found in European hotels. Of the three restaurants on the property, Il Giardino, which serves up Italian-style tapas in addition to its menu of pizza and some lighter fare, is the most low-key. Be sure to ask for a table outside on the terrace.
Come il Latte
Via Silvio Spaventa, 24/26, Ludovisi
One of the more Instagrammable gelato shops, Come il Latte's walls are lined with old-fashioned milk bottles, the floors are black-and-white tiled, and their flavors are handwritten on a chalkboard menu. They pride themselves on making super fresh gelato daily, and on their ingredient sourcing, which draws from around the world: vanilla from Madagascar, pistachio from Sicily (mixed with ricotta and white chocolate in one flavor and oranges in another), cinnamon from Ceylon (cinnamon cream is counted as a specialty, and there's also a pear sultanas variation), and so on. Don't feel like you have to be adventurous with your flavor choice, though; Come il Latte does the classics right.
Via Vittorio Veneto, 150, Ludovisi
Harry’s big claim to fame is a starring role in Fellini’s La Dolce Vita, making it a great pit stop while wandering Via Veneto. The food is good, but the drinks are better—best enjoyed al fresco and with a side of people watching. While it’s an “American bar” the waiters bring out little snacks with your drink order in a manner that’s decidedly Roman.
Via Della Purificazione, 21, Ludovisi
Intimate and still reasonably priced (for Rome), Osteria Barberini always delivers an excellent meal and experience (you'll never forget the tagliolini with white truffles). There's plenty of fresh vegetables on the menu, making for a lighter reprieve from the rich dishes. Reservations can be tricky to snag here so be sure to book at least several days in advance.