Piazza di S. Lorenzo in Lucina, 29, Campo Marzio
Ciampino has roots dating back to 1941, which means they've had generations to perfect their gelato. The old-school café uses organic milk and eggs, and many of the flavors are loaded with fresh fruits. One of their specialities is candied chestnut—but regardless of your personal flavor preference, put it in a waffle cone with Ciampino's whipped cream.
Via Margutta, 11, Campo Marzio
When Saddlers first launched in 1950's, it was an instant hit with its sleek drawstring bucket bags and totes, and counted Jacqueline Onassis as a fan. In 2009, the brand was revamped by Micaela Calabresi Marconi, a young fashion executive with a fondness for logo-free nostalgia. Its present-day incarnation maintains a retro-bent: color-blocked suede pochettes, studded clutches, and leather bracelets—all fully customizable. The weekend bag can be made to order, with a strap customized to you so it hits at just the right spot.
Via del Babuino, 81, Campo Marzio
We like to think of this as the Italian equivalent of say, a Barneys, though it’s a bit smaller in size. There’s both a men’s and women’s flagship on Via Babuino, plus a few smaller shops scattered throughout the city; you’ll find an unerring edit of Alaia, Tom Ford, Alexander McQueen, and the Row—albeit with a Roman bent. (The Céline assortment, unsurprisingly, is really good.) For the guys, they bet big on more tailored suiting looks from Thom Browne, plus sharp jackets from Givenchy and Valentino sneakers.
Via Bocca di Leone, 32, Campo Marzio
Dad to Delfina and the man who inspired her to go into jewelry design in the first place, Bernard Delettrez has been churning out surrealistic, mixed-medium jewelry—sculls, bones, insects, and reptiles—for decades. His shop, while small, feels more like a gallery than a retail space, with a wide range of his work displayed in a series of museum-style cases.
Via del Leone, 21, Campo Marzio
Iosselliani’s elaborately beaded, multi-chained, rainbow-hued jewelry (both costume and fine) are statement pieces at their best. Conceived and crafted right here in Rome by a (married) couple of design-savvy jewelers, the artful rings, bracelets, and necklaces make for excellent keepsakes to bring home. The moody wood-and-mirrors flagship is also where you can see pieces from their home décor collection.
Piazza di Spagna 38, Campo Marzio
Designed by David Chipperfield and situated just steps from Valentino’s storied command post in Palazzo Mignanelli, the brand’s massive, gleaming flagship boutique serves as a beautifully marbled backdrop for the seasonal collections—men’s, women’s, and accessories—many of which can only be found here. It sounds fittingly opulent, but the space is kept purposefully understated in a way that’s almost museum-like.
Palazzo Fendi Largo Goldoni, 420, Campo Marzio
A true Roman heritage brand, Fendi went to great lengths to restore and revamp a historic palazzo to serve as the brand’s six-story headquarters, while still letting the building’s magnificent architecture shine. In addition to the two floors of retail space—complete with contemporary art from the family’s private collection—there’s a Zuma sushi outpost, an apartment reserved exclusively for VIP’s, and a branded seven-room hotel, Fendi Private Suites.
Via della Croce, 39, Campo Marzio
This family-owned restaurant, located near the Spanish steps—but not at all touristy—is a great spot for handmade seafood pasta, and the artichokes and meatloaf are pretty phenomenal, too. The local favorite can book up pretty quickly, so call in or email for a reservation in advance; a handwritten placard will mark your table when you arrive.
Piazza Nicosia, 24, Campo Marzio
If you’re spending an afternoon strolling the banks of the Tiber, pop into this traditional Roman restaurant for a seafood-centric dinner: If you can’t decide between fish and pasta—both excellent options here—the pro move is to order the linguine with lobster or spaghetti with clams to get the best of both worlds. There are two dining rooms inside, though since the restaurant takes up a lovely corner overlooking the Piazza Nicosia, the best seat in the house is on the outdoor patio— perfect for observing your fellow diners (mostly locals) in their natural habitat.
Via del Babuino, 9, Campo Marzio
Many locals would agree that the leafy terrace at the Hotel De Russie, a Rocco Forte Hotel is one of the best bars in town, weather permitting—otherwise head inside. It’s definitely a scene, meaning that the people-watching is top-notch, though the cocktail menu—a dozen or so martini options, all the classics (sidecar, old fashioned, etc.), and the signature Stravinskij Spritz (don’t be fooled, it packs a punch)—totally carries its weight. Food-wise, there are fancy sandwiches, classic salads, and of course, pasta.