Travel

Italy

Establishment neighborhood
Casa degli Atellani
Corso Magenta, 65, San Vittore
This large villa came to the Atellani family via a donation from the Duke of Milan in the late 1400s. The family wasted no time transforming the property into Milan’s party house of the period (Leonardo da Vinci actually stayed there while painting The Last Supper), and its magnificence is still (basically) intact. An audio guide accompanies you through the many rooms filled with paintings and antiques that belonged to the family. The surrounding gardens and vineyard are great for strolling through after a cappuccino and pastry at the café.
Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera
Via Brera, 28, Brera
This beautiful seventeenth-century building is still a functioning university, but thanks to its significant inventory of cultural loot, it also operates as a museum, known as the Pinacoteca di Brera. The site started as a convent but opened as a museum in 1809. Nowadays, it’s home to Milan’s primary collection of paintings, with pieces you’ll probably recognize from your art history textbook—Raphael’s Marriage of the Virgin, Caravaggio’s Supper at Emmaus—as well as more modern works by artists like Modigliani. After browsing the galleries, take a stroll through the on-site botanical gardens.
Teatro alla Scala
Via Filodrammatici, 2, Broletto
This world-famous opera house was the passion project of Empress Maria Theresa of Austria, who oversaw its construction in the 1770s (the opening night performance was Salieri’s Europa Riconosciuta). Intense bombing during WWII led to a series of major renovations (the most recent in 2004), and today it’s just as resplendent as it was in the eighteenth century. Red velvet, silk brocade walls, and gilded stucco are illuminated by a huge glittering chandelier composed of nearly 400 lamps. If you’re in town and appreciate opera or just theater in general, a performance at La Scala is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Nilufar Depot
Viale Vincenzo Lancetti, 34, Derganino
Nina Yashar is one of the queens of the Italian design world, so there was an electric sense of excitement when the gallerist and furniture dealer opened Nilufar Depot three years ago. The space is a converted silverware factory near Milan’s Garibaldi train station, a three-story wonderland comprising thousands of historic and contemporary pieces, including work from legends like Gio Ponti and Piero Fornasetti. It’s not technically a museum, but coming here can feel like the ultimate education in Italian design. And because inventory changes all the time, there’s always something new to see, no matter how many times you go back.
Armani Libri
Piazza Croce Rossa, Brera
Giorgio Armani is something of a fashion god in Milan—and everywhere around the world for that matter. And his presence is felt everywhere, especially at his headquarters. The complex includes Armani-branded everything (a hotel, a café, a florist, and curiously, a chocolate shop). There’s also an Armani bookstore, which carries a huge range of fashion, art, and design books, including limited editions and prints. It’s heaven for book lovers and anyone interested in beautiful objects.
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