Palazzo Pitti

Oltrarno—literally, the other (oltro) side of the Arno—is home to some of the city’s best restaurants. Trattoria Cammillo is that kind of old-world, white-tablecloth, monogrammed-plates place that serves up simple Tuscan food, elevated with perfect ingredients and careful preparation. The menu is seasonal, and autumn is our favorite time to stop in for one reason: ribollita. Translating directly as “reboiled,” this traditional soup is made of layers of vegetables, beans, and stale bread (and it’s much more appetizing than it sounds). After starting with a bowl of this Tuscan staple, try the celery, egg, and bottarga side dish (which can be a meal in itself.)

There are no artificial flavorings or colorings in the gelato at La Carraia, just the concentrated nectar of the best fruits, nuts, and herbs of the season. La Carraia’s display is enough to lure you in, with its creamy mounds of colorful options. Go for a more unusual one, like torta della nonna (“grandma’s cake,” a regional pine nut dessert), or the best one, ricotta. Best of all, the small degustazione (taster cones) are a steal at only one euro.

For an urban hotel, it doesn’t get more intimate that this. Only seven rooms are spread over four floors with a lush, secret garden out back. The overall aesthetic here is botanical. The ornate wallpaper throughout features a medley of flora and fauna, the pictures hanging on the walls detail rare flowers and birds, and the little courtyard teeming with plants is the icing on the cake. Guest rooms are outfitted with old antiques, huge beds, and all the old bones of the building (like the beamed ceiling and wall paneling) have been maintained. Overall, the effect is reminiscent of an old Tuscan farmhouse that’s received a beautiful, subtle face-lift.

Hotel Lungarno, owned by the Ferragamo family, is designed to feel like a maritime-inflected period townhouse with incredibly views from every room.

For a step into the Baroque, there’s Villa Cora, which was once owned by Napoleon’s widow, the Empress Eugénie. It’s known for opulent, spacious interiors and is situated within a city park that overlooks the Boboli Gardens—it’s a perfect starting point for exploring Florence on foot.