Italy

Le Grotelle, on the edge of Capri, is the kind of place you want to linger for the rest of your life. Sip aperitifs on the covered patio or terraces carved out of the cliffs, and absorb as much as you can of the Arco Naturale, Punta Campanella, and the Amalfi coast in the distance. It would be all about the views if it weren’t for the excellent food—pizza, ravioli, and torta caprese—and the twinkle lights and candles after sunset.

Somehow, this restaurant has built its (stellar) reputation on day-old bread. The panzanella is excellent, as is the bean-y, bread-y ribollita. They’re also known for great tiramisu. It’s across the river from the Uffizi Galleries; go there first, then here for lunch.

Nobody wants to leave Genoa without eating here: This is where you go for pesto that’s the real deal. You’ll fill your table with fried zucchini flowers, chuck-stuffed ravioli, and yes, plate after plate of pesto-coated, handmade pasta. You have to call for reservations, and they always book up. If you don’t luck out on the phone, swing by before dinner service starts; sometimes the host has a last-minute cancellation or a late-night seating.

Castello di Casole occupies a 10th century Tuscan castle, set snugly into a landscape of working farmland. Guests might start their day at the break of dawn, wildlife-spotting with a local naturalist. Or ride a horse through a network of country trails. A pack of curly-haired dogs might assist with a truffle hunt. Or none of the above: There’s no sense of urgency here, and visitors who believe in the concept of villeggiatura might spend days on end lounging at the pristine pool and unwinding at the spa, which occupies what used to be the wine cellar. All the hotel suites are well-appointed and comfortable, but the villas, in the former farmhouses that surround the central castle, are standouts.

Right on the ocean near Palermo, Verdura Resort is serene, relaxing, and all out luxurious. The stunning Irene Forte Spa, surrounded by olive trees and orange groves, is a playground of thalassotherapy pools, Finnish saunas, steam rooms, and more, but the facials are next-level. Each one uses Forte’s luxe, clean skin care line—made with botanicals sourced on Verdura’s own organic farm. We love the Etna Age-Defying Facial—90 minutes of cleansing, toning, and exfoliation, face massage, lymphatic drainage (they use cold volcanic stones sourced from Etna mountain), and a moisture-bomb hyaluronic acid treatment to seal it all in. You’ll walk out totally relaxed, refreshed, with a luminous glow.

People have traveled to Fiuggi for centuries just for the natural spring water, which, legend has it, is healing. At Palazzo Fiuggi, you’ll drink it, soak in it, and shower in it. But the real force behind this destination spa is the medical team, who will tailor your experience according to your goals and the health evaluation you take upon arrival. Your results inform the rest of your stay: Will you spend long mornings trekking through the countryside and afternoons in the thermal baths? Or will you spend the week detoxing, following your doctor visits with lymphatic massage and cleansing rituals in the hammam? While you're here, definitely get the Barbara Sturm Instant Glow facial. The 50-minute treatment, which includes cleansing, exfoliation, hydration, and firming massage, is as relaxing as it is luxurious.

The first urban Six Senses property is surrounded by heritage sites with household names—the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps…we could go on. Inside, Six Senses Rome is contemporary and serene, dressed in materials that call up the past (marble, travertine, stone, stone, stone) but firmly rooted in what feels cool now. Executive chef Nadia Frisinia is responsible for the excellent food at the two restaurants: Bivium, an all-day spot perfect for fueling up presightseeing and winding down post-, and Notos, which serves cocktails and bites in the rooftop garden. At the spa, facials use products from the Tuscan brand Seed to Skin, the plunge pool trio is inspired by traditional Roman bathhouses, and sleep treatments aim to help guests evade jet lag—and get right to the good stuff.

On the south end of Lake Como, Passalacqua’s 24 rooms are spread among three buildings. In the central villa, expect Italian opulence: gleaming golden chandeliers, Venetian terrazzo, and a vast collection of antiques. Up at the Palazz, it’s all antique beams, standing tubs, and warm country house details. And nestled between the gardens and the shore, the lake house offers wide views of the glimmering waters of Lake Como. At the restaurant, traditional ingredients and simple preparations take center stage. Anyone who's visited Passalacqua comes home raving about the spa; it's distinctly modern, and includes a sauna, steam room, cold plunge, ice bath, and lounge.

Lake Como—hugged tight by green mountains and pastel palazzi—is unabashedly old-school glamorous. Despite the hum of homeowners, holidayers, and the odd seaplane, the lake exudes a dolce far niente sundress-and-Aperol-spritz calm. A stay at the intimate Villa Làrio feels like floating around your own exquisitely restored palazzo, replete with lush gardens, contemporary interiors, and a mega view. We loved diving off the private jetty, laps in the pool, morning cooking classes, and finding cozy, manicured corners to enjoy the panoramic lake vistas. Da Luciano across the water for a Negroni, shellfish cavatelli in Cernobbio, daily dips, and Riva boat trips are the way to go. Pro tip: to really explore the little villages nestled around the lake, rent a car.

Tucked into a prime corner of the piazzetta is this storied fishing village’s crown jewel: Splendido Mare, a Belmond Hotel, Portofino. More understated townhouse than the glitz-fest you might expect from the place that invented la dolce vita, it’s both laid-back and sophisticated, thanks to a stunning redesign from Charlotte de Tonnac and Hugo Sauzay of Festen Architecture in Paris. Polished wood and gentle curves warm the mid-century modern aesthetic, especially in the snug bar (there are seats for three at the counter) tucked behind the hotel’s exquisite restaurant DaV Mare. (Order the Stinger cocktail after supper—it’s a scrumptious muddle of Cognac and mint liqueur—and ask for a sip of the local Lalla Luisa digestivo while you’re at it.) And with only fourteen rooms, this chic ode to Italian modernism meets maritime won’t stay under the radar for long. Images courtesy of Belmond.