Travel

The Cyclades

Establishment neighborhood
Boogaloo
Antiparos
Smack in the middle of Antiparos square, Boogaloo is an atmospheric spot for a pre- or post- dinner drink (ideal if you’re dining at Sapou, nearby), with polished concrete walls and tropical textiles and colorful paintings everywhere. The cocktails here are uniformly great, but we’re especially into the Green Witch (kiwi, ginger, cucumber, lime, gin, and elderflower with a hint of chili). Revelers will dance the night—and much of the early morning—away during the summer high season.
Elia Kafenes
Antiparos
Come here for the best breakfast sandwiches on Antiparos. Five minutes’ walk from the port, this is not an establishment that throws together two slices of untoasted bread with a bit of bacon and egg squished in the middle. These sandwiches are carefully crafted: perfectly toasted bread with crisp bacon, locally-grown tomatoes, ripe avocado, and lightly fried eggs. Their coffee is fantastic and effective, and their stack of pancakes, meanwhile, come drenched in chocolate sauce and fresh berries. Elia Kafenes is open late by American standards (meaning 4am, which is entirely normal in Greece), and while it’s also popular for dinner, you should really be coming here for the breakfast. You’ll probably find yourself sitting back at the same table the next day, and the day after that—the food is that good. And the staff won’t mind—they’ll probably recognize you after the first visit, ready to welcome you back with genuine enthusiasm.
Faneromeni Beach
Antiparos
This teeny cove (it wouldn’t fit more than twenty people at once) is idyllic. It’s about a twenty-minute drive from the main town and charmingly rustic. No parasols, cushioned sun beds, or bar service here. But it’s worth a visit if for nothing else than the glassy, crystalline water and ineffably peaceful feeling of being in a place so desolate. Our advice: Fill a roomy beach bag with towels, snacks, drinks, and snorkel gear—even the smallest swimmers will spot fish and shells in the bathtub-clear water. And the tiny church on the beach’s edge adds to this picturesque scene. Image courtesy of Antiparos.com
Onar
Ahla Beach, Andros
One of the few Cycladic islands untouched by the masses of tourists, Andros is probably what you think of when you think of the perfect Greek escape. And there is no better way to take it in than at a hotel whose name means “dream” in ancient Greek. Guests lucky enough to occupy one of Onar's ten traditional cottages are treated to incomparable nature and wildlife as well as the utmost peace and relaxation. Situated in a protected wetland within a cove on the east coast of the island, the limited accommodations create an intimate, almost communal experience, all while maintaining a sense of privacy.
Theodorou’s Sweet Shop
Artemonas, Sifnos
In the charming village of Artemonas, Theodorou is new by Greek standards. It opened in 1933 and is still a family-run business. This is the spot to pick up the most delectable Greek sweets like amygdalota, ground-almond treats in cookie form, supposedly shaped to mimic a Roman nose. The shop also sells the most divine tubs of sugar paste, fragrant with bergamot and rose water, as well as pasteli (sticky honey-and-sesame bars), which are the traditional treat at weddings and baptisms. All these beautifully packaged goodies are made from scratch in ginormous, shining copper pots behind the counter. Bring a box of bourekia—ground spices, soft ricotta, and island honey encased in a sugar-drenched flaky pastry shell—back to your hotel for a midnight snack.
Antiparos Cave
Antiparos Town, Antiparos
If you do one activity on Antiparos (that’s not food- or beach-related), do this: Descend hundreds of steps into the cave while listening to an audio tour that explains the history of this natural wonder. Part of the attraction is the endless stalactites and stalagmites, one of which is rumored to be the most ancient in Europe, at about 45 million years old. As you descend, notice the various inscriptions on the cave walls, reminders of the figures who have also come down these steps, Alexander the Great and Lord Byron to name just two. There’s plenty of parking by the entrance, and a bus also runs from the port to the cave throughout the summer. Just be prepared with appropriate footwear and a bottle of water—there is no store nearby.
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