Diaplous Boat Company
840 11, Folegandros
Folegandros’s rocky topography means that to really experience the myriad small beaches and coves, you want to do it by boat if you can. Diaplous’s reputation is well-established, and its excursions are nothing fancy: Guests spread out towels on the deck and jump off the side for a swim here and there as the boat navigates its way around the shoreline. It’ll stop at under-the-radar-but-gorgeous-nonetheless inlets for exploring. Look for Chrysophilia, the one cave you absolutely cannot miss, with its ancient, inscription-clad walls. For divers, SEA-U Dive Center is the way to go; it's run by locals who know the island like no one else.
Panagia is halfway up a gently sloping hill and seems to keep watch over the whole island (which, given that it is a mere fourteen square miles in size, wouldn’t be hard). The church dates from 1687 but got a face-lift in 1821 and, in its previous life, was the temple of an all-female Greek Orthodox monastery. From the outside, it looks like many other churches in the Cyclades—all white with domes that gleam incandescently against the parched, rocky landscape—but the inside is rich with frescoes.