Travel

The Cyclades

Establishment neighborhood
Despotiko
Despotiko
Instead of people, the tiny island of Despotiko is populated by...goats. In fact, there are about a thousand of them. There are also ancient ruins, and archaeologists come here to churn up centuries-old offerings to Apollo and Artemis—vases, agricultural tools, and figurines. Maybe there’s no one living here today, but Despotiko has plenty of past: It played host to the Venetians, Ottomans, and many, many pirates. Aside from millennia of ruins, the views of Folegandros, Syros, and Sifnos are spectacular. Getting to Despotiko is a breeze, especially from Antiparos, where the ferry only takes a couple of minutes.
Kiki’s
Agios Sostis Beach, Mykonos
There’s no telephone, electricity, or Wi-Fi at this bare-bones taverna near Agios Sostis Beach, and that’s exactly the appeal. Nothing distracts from the unobstructed coastal views and the simply, perfectly prepared plates of grilled octopus, prawns, and chicken and super fresh Greek salads and artichokes kissed with lemon juice. Kiki’s is technically open only for lunch, but service lasts until early evening for those who’ve gotten a late start.
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